Disney Vacation Planning – Using a Travel Agent

IMG_3280Hello Fellow Disney Vacation Fans!  Recently I was talking about our upcoming Disney vacation plans with some coworkers – In my excitement I was passionately describing our ADR’s (Advance Dining Reservations) and how we were going to decide what park(s) to visit each day and what rides would receive our precious allotment of FastPass+ choices.  I was enthusiastically weighing the pros and cons of crowd levels based on Extra Magic Hours….when I noticed my friends’ expressions!  The emotions clearly on their faces ranged from confusion to horror – finally one spoke what they’d all been thinking – How on Earth would anyone vacation at Disney World successfully if they didn’t know what all that “stuff” was and how to use it?

I’m a veteran of many, many Disney vacations…plus I love (madly, passionately) vacation planning, researching, studying, debating; you get the idea.  Not everyone has the desire or the time to devote to squeezing every drop of potential vacation fun into the weeks, months, and yes, even years of planning leading up to a vacation to the Happiest Place on Earth.  This DSCN3118realization prompted me to invite a very special guest contributor to my blog today.

Please welcome my dear friend Rebecca Kelly.  Rebecca is a Disney travel expert – a travel agent with an Earmarked agency, Fairytale Journeys – who is here today to share with you the advantages of booking your Disney vacation through an agent.  Travel agents do not make money directly from their clients – they make money by booking travel.  Their services are absolutely free to their clients – yes that means it costs you nothing extra to use an agent.  It’s in your travel agent’s best interest to book you the best vacation you can have within your vacation budget – they thrive on repeat business and pour their hearts into making sure your vacation dollars and time give you the very best possible return on your investment.  You can find Rebecca on Twitter @rkellyWDW and on Facebook at Fairytale Journeys by Rebecca Kelly (be sure to “Like” her page – she shares great info!).  Rebecca also has a great Disney blog of her own called Disney With Me – You’ll want to check that out, too.

Advice on Using a Disney Travel Expert – by Rebecca Kelly

Prior to becoming a travel agent myself, I booked two smaller trips on my own and two bigger trips with an agent (alternating each). I actually enjoyed it both ways, but there was something really genuinely neat, an extra element of fun, that went into the two trips with the agents… A shared sense of enjoyment, and an added peace of mind.

Booking a trip through a travel agent may not be right for everyone, but if you’ve ever wondered about it, or been curious as to the benefits of using a travel agent, here are a few of the pro-sides – as someone who has been on both sides of the experience. 🙂

1. First of all, travel agents who work with Earmarked agencies specialize in Disney – meaningIMG_2532 that they take an extensive training course from Disney, which they are expected to stay up to date on, and they get frequent emails about new services, changes, events and more. (We even get trained on MyMagic+!) Plus, very often we’re coming from a background of vested interest – most Disney specialists in travel planning are doing it because they LOVE Disney. So we keep up to date with news and things even beyond what Disney officially sends out, because we want to!

2. This training and self-motivated research means that if you’ve got a question, there’s a good chance your travel agent has an answer. And if not, we know where to look. 🙂 So you can go to your TA for questions about pretty much anything related to your trip, instead of having to Google for your answers.

3. A step up from dealing directly with Disney when you have questions or needs is that you’ve got one person you’re working with the whole time. Your travel agent knows your background, your needs, and what’s most important to you – so you won’t be answering the “And are you going to be celebrating anything on this visit?” question every time you call or email. You can develop a good rapport with agents too – I’ve become good friends with quite a lot of my clients!

4. A good way to think of your travel agent service is as “concierge service without paying for the concierge upgrade.” If you need something done last-minute, we’ve got you.  We’ll wait on hold while you drink Diet Coke and eat peanuts in the lounge, as one friend of mine put it. 🙂  We can call the resort directly with a last-minute request while you’re flying in, or extend a reservation by a day, or whatever needs doing. All of this is free, because travel agents work on commission. There’s no markup, no fees to the client.

5. In the same vein, when you use a TA, you don’t have to worry that a better rate has comeMM+ADRs out for your trip – your travel agent keeps track of that.  Once promos are announced, we figure out what option will save you the most money and jump on it. This means you can book as soon as you’ve got the deposit ready and you know your dates – you don’t have to wait for a promotion to come out in order to be able to apply it later.

6. Your travel agent can put together the entire trip for you. Are you going someplace other than Disney? You don’t have to make multiple phone calls to get it all lined up; unlike when you work directly with the destination you’re visiting, a TA can book multiple destinations and get the whole thing lined up. Rental car, shuttle pick-up, tours, off-site hotels, dining reservations, your travel agent can put all those things together.  We can even recommend best parks for a particular day, book FastPass+, or make up a customized itinerary for you!

7. But we don’t have to. Anything that you love doing, you still get to do! If making dining reservations is your thing, but you want someone to just line up all your hotel and car reservations, not a problem. The only thing a travel agent HAS to do is be the one to put the booking through and make the subsequent payments. The TA will also be the one to call in any changes to the booking.

IMG_25318. MyMagic+ and the MyDisneyExperience.com site make it a lot easier for you and your travel agent to keep track of your planning. Once your reservation is linked in the system, you can make your own ADRs online – or your TA can. You can schedule your FastPass+ selections – or your TA can.  These are things that you have complete access to at all times, plus an informational backup (in the form of your agent) to rely on if it gets too confusing.

9. An additional little bonus about booking with a Disney specialist is that you are usually booking with a Disney fan.  This means that you’ve got someone to bounce ideas and comparisons off of, and also just someone else to get excited with over the little details of your trip! Sometimes it’s just fun to share that excitement of your upcoming trip, or the things you’ve booked, with someone else in the moment.

10. Finally, it may not seem important to you, but I can promise you it is to us: remember that with every booking, you’re helping out a Disney fan do one of their favourite things. If I can’t be planning my trips every single day, helping you plan yours is the next best thing!

 

Voices of Disney – Remembering Paul Frees

IMG_5260Along with millions of other Disney vacationers, I am crazy about the Haunted Mansion.  While I’ve only had the opportunity to visit the one at Walt Disney World, I feel certain that all the Disney Haunted Mansions are equally as wonderful.  I’ve written a Haunted Mansion Halloween Homage and a bit about bringing some Haunted Mansion home.  Today I want to revisit my love for the home of 999 happy haunts – specifically, I want to talk about a very important character, without whom our Haunted Mansion experience would be greatly diminished:  The Ghost Host voiced by Paul Frees.

The voice of the Ghost Host is unique and forceful – absolutely perfect for a dark and scary Doom Buggy ride through the spooky rooms, hallways, attic and graveyard of the house at the end of the lane in Liberty Square.  It doesn’t matter if he’s telling me that HE will lower the safety bar, explaining a pause in the ride, or warning me that a ghost may follow me home – the ride needs a host and I can’t imagine any other voice being as perfect.

Turns out, Paul Frees (born in 1920) voiced a great number of our favorite characters from movies, cartoons, DWR2009 079and stop-motion specials over more than four decades until his death in 1986.  Now, maybe you knew all about Mr. Frees other works, but I did not and am so surprised and thrilled to find out my beloved Ghost Host was also the voice of these characters (and many more)…

“Dead men tell no tales” – the voice in Pirates of the Caribbean that echoes this phrase over and over – Paul Frees!  He also did other voices in this ride.

Ludwig Von Drake in Walt Disney’s Wonderful World of Color (1957 – 1986)…Do you remember him?

Boris Badenov in Rocky and His Friends (1959-1961) and The Bullwinkle Show (1961)  While Rocky and Bullwinkle were, technically before my time – I grew up on the reruns and LOVED Boris and Natasha!!!  Can you believe it?

Santa Clause in the much loved Frosty the Snowman (1969) – wouldn’t be Christmas without this special cartoon, would it?  FYI – he was also in the 1976 Christmas hits Rudolph’s Shiny New Year (as Santa Clause, Eon, and General Ticker) and Frosty’s Winter Wonderland (as Jack Frost).

Ignatz Mouse in Krazy Kat (1963) – If you’ve not seen this very different cat and mouse cartoon series, you really need to check out some samples on YouTube.

Burgermeister Meisterburger – Seriously, it’s TRUE!  Paul Frees is the village villain in Santa Clause is Coming to Town! (1970)

Okay, last one.  Paul Frees was the voice of Crusty in The Incredible Mr. Limpet (1964)…if you missed out on this cinematic comedy classic starring Don Knotts as the title character, well you need to get your hands on the DVD!

So, how many of Paul Frees’ voices did you already know about?

 

 

 

What-if Wednesday – Disney Food Home Delivery

What if WednesdayFellow Disney Fans!  It’s time once again for What-If Wednesday!  The game show where we use our imagination to answer Disney-specific “What-if” questions.  Contestants from Twitter and Facebook go head to head and
compete to invent the most popular answers.  Get ready to let your imagination run
wild!  And as Drew Carey would say, this is ”the show where everything’s
made up and the points don’t matter
.”

 

What if you could have any one Disney food item delivered to your door?  What would it be? 

It’s guaranteed – if the “What-if” question involves food, there will be a bunch of participants!  This time was no exception but what was surprising is that what I expected and what I got were completely different.  I asked the question and the answers were fantastic!  Early risers jumped into the game with breakfast foods, others were craving their favorite sweet tooth fix or salty snack selections, and a few were ready for some serious main course action!

So, here are the answers to this week’s round – broken down into three categories:  Breakfast foods, Snack Fix, and Meaty Main Course!

Let’s Play!

In the Breakfast Category:

Denise (Facebook) answered simply: “Dole whip for me, Mickey waffles for my son” – I slid this answer into the breakfast category because of the waffles and the fact that anytime of day is the perfect time for a Dole Whip!  Denise gets 25 bonus points for thinking of someone else’s stomach instead of just her own!

Curtis Stone (@GeekinOnWDW) “Since it’s morning, I’d like one of those large croissant egg sandwiches I’ve had at Beach Club.”  Having never visited the Beach Club, much less had one of those breakfast sandwiches, I can only speculate about their tastiness, but they do sound perfectly delicious.  And conveniently portable for a breakfast food!

Ideal breakfast EVERY morning

Photo Credit – Jenni Vander Weide

Andrea Roberts (@andpes13)   ‏This time of day I would like the puffed French toast from Crystal Palace…yum!  Then Andrea added, “It’s always a great time!  We try to go there or Boma for a breakfast every trip :)”  Puffed French toast?  Seriously – who would not want to try that?  It sounds like a little bit of heaven…with the added bonus of getting to hang out with Pooh, Piglet, Tigger and Eeyore while you’re feasting!

Jeanie (@jeanieblue114)  “mickey waffle with fruit. I never seem to make it to breakfast. Still have never had Tonga toast”  The Mickey waffle is absolutely a classic – the quintessential Disney breakfast food, but Jeanie knows the truth – they say Tonga Toast is the most amazingly delicious stuff on Disney property – devotees of this menu item from the Polynesian’s Kona Café swear by its perfection….which may explain why it’s been on the menu since 1971!

Snack Fix Section:

Amy (Facebook) “Beignets and a mint julep from New Orlelans Square. Mmmm…”  Initially, this started to go under the breakfast category – that’s when I eat my Beignets (with café au lait, of course) – but serving them alongside a mint julep sounded like a rockin’ afternoon snack to me.  And, as we say here in Louisiana – Amy’s answer “flung a craving on me!”  50 points to Amy for making me hungry for beignets!

Megan (Facebook) “Port Orleans River Roost lounge had these amazingly awesome pimiento cheese fritters with this delicious red pepper jelly on the side.  We ended up having them three or four times during our Disney World trip in January/February and I’ve craved them more frequently than any other snack from Disney World.”  I have stayed at Port Orleans and how these incredible-sounding perfect little combos of sweet and salty goodness escaped my notice is nearly unbelievable!  Has anyone else tried these?  I want them!!!

Ruth (Facebook) “The lemon tart from Raglan Road” – well, Ruth, I love lemon and happen to have myself a little ADR at Raglan Road coming up!  Shall I send you a picture?  ‘Cause I will certainly be giving the lemon tart a try!!

Niki (Facebook) enthusiastically answered – “SELMAS!!!”  Uhmmmm, what?  Niki had me stumped…what the heck is a Selma’s?  I’m supposed to know all about Disney stuff (I do have my own blog and all) and I’m embarrassed to say I had to Google Niki’s answer.  Selma’s is a bakery that makes cookies sold in Disney parks!  Ah, okay, so I asked Niki (pretending I knew all along what she was talking about) what kind she wanted and she answered, “At this moment in my life white chocolate raspberry.” So, Niki – 75 points for stumping me and a gift of sorts in return.  I found a blog while I was conducting my Selma’s research and they claim to have developed a white chocolate cookie recipe to duplicate your Selma’s favorite:  MyBakerLady.com – enjoy!

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Photo Credit – Disney Dream Girls

Heather (Facebook) is absolutely positive, her Disney food delivery would be “cheese empanadas from the Mexico Pavilion.”  Why, Heather, do you need those?  Heather confessed,  “I dream about them. Literally.”  Dreamy food?  Oh, boy – I am going to have to try those empanadas!!!  Great review here at EatingWDW.com  I’m putting these babies in the snack section only because they don’t contain meat, disqualifying them from being among the “Meaty Main Courses”.

Disney Dream Girls (@DisDreamGirls) – The reply was simply a picture of a certain popular frozen treat and…. “need I say more?” #dolewhip #polynesianresort #delish

The WDW Blog (@theWDWblog) “hmmm right now I would have to say the kitchen sink from Beaches & Cream I’ve got a sweet tooth atm :)”  I don’t know if you’ve ever SEEN the monstrosity that is the Kitchen Sink – mother of all ice cream sundaes, but that baby is humongous!  I asked WDW Blog if they knew how much one weighed and the answer was, “Oh geez I have no idea at least 5 pounds lol (that’s without the bowl counting) lol”  I assure you – that is no joke!

Rebecca (Facebook) didn’t want to get left out of this week’s round!  She said,  “Am I too late? Right now I’m thinking Butterfinger cupcake, because that might be the only way I could get it any time soon. :D”  I’ve written an entire post on craving this particular sweet treat and I applaud Rebecca’s choice.  The Butterfinger cupcake (available DSCN2520at Disney’s Hollywood Studios) would satisfy hunger as a breakfast, dessert, or late night snack.  Excellent answer!

Dennis (@oakmanner) “Jalapeño cheese stuffed pretzel!” Okay, Dennis – haven’t had one, but I have heard they’re good.  I want mine with a cold, dark beer to wash it down.  Mmmmmm.

Meaty Main Course Cravings:

Kelley (Facebook) “Filet from LeCellier!  I would say Dole Whip float, but I’ve just about mastered that recipe.”  First – I LOVE the filet at Le Cellier – say what you want about the price or the difficulties one often encounters trying to score an ADR to eat at this table service restaurant in Epcot’s Canada pavilion – the steaks are excellent!  Second, yes, of course I asked Kelley for her Dole Whip recipe and here it is:

  • Ok, here’s the recipe I use for my small ice cream maker: Mix 2 cups Dole pineapple juice and 1 cup sugar until sugar is dissolved. Add 1 cup heavy cream, 1 tsp vanilla, splash of each – lemon juice and lime juice. Add milk to make 4 cups total. Make in ice cream maker, freeze then serve with pineapple juice. YUM!

Teresa (Facebook) “Monte Cristo sandwich!” – Once again, it’s a food item I’ve heard about repeatedly on blogs and podcasts.  It seems the Blue Bayou restaurant at Disneyland serves up a version of this battered-and-fried turkey, ham, and cheese sandwich – sprinkled with powdered sugar and served with blackberry preserves on the side- that is to die for.  Just in case we want to try this and don’t have a trip to California in our near future, here’s a recipe for it from the Disney Food Blog.

Chris Schenck (@Incage2) “ribs from flame tree!”  Now THESE I can recommend!  We love Flame Tree Barbeque at the Animal Kingdom park.  Great food.

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Photo Credit – David Hodges

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Photo Credit: David Hodges

David Hodges (@thedislife)  “Does this count as one food item?” – Like the Dream Girls, Dave answered with a picture – all I can say is Holy COW! (they used a whole cow!) – what on Earth?  Dave tells me his choice is the “Bacon wrapped meatloaf….. Wolfgang :)”  (Wolfgang Puck’s in Downtown Disney) So, I asked Dave how close he came to finishing this meat and potato monstrosity and he answered with another picture!  “I licked the plate and had this for dessert :)”  People, I believe we have a winner!  1000 points to David Hodges for his appetite!

Thank you ALL for playing!  Come back next week and find out the answer to What if……?

 

 

Disney Cruise in the Mediterranean – Sorrento and Pompeii

DSCN3524Links to the other parts of this trip report are at the very bottom of this post.

On Thursday, August 15th, we awoke in Naples.  I’ll be honest – I, for one, was getting pretty tired!  This would be our last port before a day at sea and the return to Barcelona.  Again, I’d scheduled a day-long tour with Can’t be Missed Tours.  The price was right and the itinerary sounded perfect – we’d travel to Sorrento after making a brief stop at a scenic overlook above Positano, then spend the afternoon touring Pompeii.  After the resounding success of the previous day’s tour of Rome with the same tour company, we were raring to go and have another action-packed, fun-filled day under the summer sun in Italy!

Everything started off great – same as previous days, up early and hitting the breakfast buffet DSCN3528before waiting to leave the ship.  The port of Naples was not a tender port and we were able to leave the ship without waiting in the theater with a bunch of other families – we walked right off from the main lobby and we were almost the first to leave.  We easily found the port station in front of which we were to meet our tour guide.  Slowly, the crowd grew and included many of the same people we’d toured Rome with the day before.  No tour guides.  I saw another building and walked down to the people waiting there to see if maybe our tour guide was waiting for us there.  Sure enough, a small, older man and a taller man (in very snappy attire!) were waiting – silly, I know, but they looked sketchy to me.  They were holding a sloppy, hand-lettered sign that simply said “CBM”.  I immediately decided they were impostors and walked back to the rest of our waiting group members.

DSCN3530Shortly, the two “impostors” walked over and began asking if any of the group were waiting for C.B.M. – they never said, “Can’t be Missed Tours” – I was still skeptical until they began calling out the last names of the families booked on their tour.  We were among those called and so were the families we’d met the day before.  We ended up with the older man – who had the unlikely name of Guido (literally “guide” in Italian).  So, Guido herded us into a large van/small bus-like vehicle, introduced us to our young driver and we were off.  I’m pretty sure if we hadn’t had Stephano as our guide in Rome, we would have been perfectly (or at least a little) happy with DSCN3537Guido.  Compared to Stephano, though, Guido was a disappointment.  Where Stephano shared interesting stories and fun facts while asking the group questions regularly to keep everyone engaged, Guido lectured.  Guido was not as easy to understand as Stephano – his English was much more heavily accented and, as the day wore on, his lectures took on a rather hilarious quality.

We were in bumper-to-bumper traffic headed high above the coast for our first two stops – and we were pretty exhausted – we all found it really hard to stay awake!  Since Guido was hard to understand, it was easy to tune him out.  Our first stop was unexpected – we stopped at an inlaid wood factory and Guido put on the hard sell.  It was interesting for about two minutes and then we were ready to get onto the good DSCN3543stuff.  Sadly, Guido had other plans.  After the explanation by the factory owner of how inlaid wood products are made, we were shuffled into the showroom where we stayed for what seemed like forever!  A couple of people bought some really small, inexpensive items – I’m convinced they did this in an attempt to end the hostage situation and it did seem to work.  Back on the bus again, we headed for an overlook above Positano.

Here’s the thing – we’re a family that likes to DO things rather than just LOOK at things and this tour was starting off a big boring disappointment.  More traffic and we finally arrived at the DSCN3553overlook, which, oddly enough, still included a big sales push by Guido – this time for lemonade or lemon ice or something from a small food-truck along side the roadway by the overlook.  Seriously, he tried so hard to get people to buy a beverage – the more he tried, the more determined I was NOT to buy anything (I’m a little stubborn that way).  We looked over, we took pictures, we waited….and waited…..it was pretty hot out there in the sun….with nothing to DO!  Finally!  Back on the bus.  Once more, Guido lectured on our way to Sorrento and as we drew closer to town, he began again with the hard sell – this time for a particular restaurant and the fixed price lunch there.  I’m pretty sure literally everyone from our group ate there except the six of us – I needed a Guido-free opportunity to explore and our time in DSCN3547Sorrento seemed too precious to waste on a big sit-down meal.  I convinced Raymond, Megan, Grant, Joseph and Jason that I could find us something good and quick to eat, leaving us more time to see the gorgeous city of Sorrento.  Guido gave us a time to meet back at the bus and we practically ran for freedom.

Downtown Sorrento was easy to find and was one of the most beautiful places I’d ever seen!  It was hard not to be distracted by the variety of shops and boutiques as I scanned forDSCN3548 something akin to fast food.  Set back from the main street in a small alleyway, I spotted the perfect place!  Tony and Rosy’s Pizza.  Stepping inside, we found the tiny, strictly to-go eatery deserted – except for Tony and Rosy and another cook.  The pizza oven was the centerpiece of the room and we were made to feel very welcome.  No one spoke any English, but they were thrilled to have attracted tourists!  We found the prices to be amazingly reasonable and ordered a gigantic 12-slice rectangular pizza, half buffalo (tomato and cheese), and half pepperoni or Margherita or some such (I loved the buffalo so much!).  We picked out DSCN3549bottled beverages and took a bunch of pictures while Tony prepared our pizza and put it in the oven.  He presented us with a souvenir bottle opener to take with us and off we went to find a place to sit and eat.

In the middle of town, next to a horse-drawn carriage stand, we found some empty park benches perfect for enjoying our lunch while people-watching.  We polished off our pizza in record time and were off to see what Sorrento had to offer by way of shopping.  What a variety of establishments!  Clothing, shoes, kitschy souvenirs, inlaid wood furniture (of course), and gelato!  Using our lessons from Paola in Florence about DSCN3550good, site-made gelato, we found a shop that passed muster and ordered cones for dessert.  I remember mine was pistachio and it was delicious.  We went into a wine/cooking store and purchased not only wine, but olive oil, limoncello, and a souvenir wine opener as well.  On the way back to the bus, I stopped to buy a kitchen towel I’d seen along the way that featured Sorrento and lemons.  Okay – GREAT time in Sorrento and now on to Pompeii – we were even early for the bus.

Here’s where we began to notice Guido’s strange way of speaking – we had less opportunity to tune him out when he DSCN3563moved back to the middle of the bus for the ride to Pompeii (probably he noticed us falling asleep earlier).  Guido began to prepare us for the sights of Pompeii and with ever-increasing frequency to use the words “special” (which came out spatial – “spay-shul”) and “proper” (with those rolling Italian R’s).  As the afternoon wore on, we would hear those two words so many times, we began to predict when he would next use special and proper to describe things from homes, to streets, to gardens – pretty much everything became a “special proper” something.

DSCN3565Pompeii is huge!  Armed (or should I say “eared”) with our “personal whispers” as Guido called them – we once again were given listening devices so as not to miss a single thing about the glories and wonders of all that is special and proper in Pompeii.  The tour started off well.  Guido was easy to follow (under a plaid umbrella to provide him shade for lecturing) and there was, indeed, so much to see!  We toured streets, homes, stores, and incredibly well-preserved baths.  We also saw storage areas where hundreds of excavated artifacts and even human remains were visible.  We noticed that the tour became slower and slower in the afternoon heat, finally stopping altogether.  Here’s where being used to summertime in Louisiana really paid off.  We were pretty comfortable, warm, but not HOT and the humidity (for us) was completely tolerable.

We wandered off, exploring as much as we dared – within earshot so we wouldn’t accidentally DSCN3568get left behind.  When Guido announced it was time to return to the bus, we knew we had seen very little of Pompeii – and absolutely none of the really interesting (risqué) parts.  Later, a look at the map and we could tell it was actually a very tiny percent of Pompeii that had been visited on the tour.  We ended up resenting the time wasted at the inlaid wood factory and the Positano overlook – if this tour would have gone straight to Pompeii first thing in the morning before visiting Sorrento, we would have enjoyed it much more.

Pompeii2The bus dropped us back at the port terminal where we had time to purchase some souvenirs in the Vespa store.  Back on the ship, exhaustion set in.  All in all, even though we’d wished the day had gone a bit differently, we still got to do and see so much – it was hard to feel disappointed.  And while I may have physically been in the theater for the “Magic and Illusion of Scott Pepper” (that evening’s show) I fell sound asleep!  When we were in Pompeii – I looked down at one point and noticed I was bleeding into my shoes from the ravages of jet-lag-induced swollen feet (sores from my shoes had formed on my Achilles tendons).  It didn’t really bother me – I was having a great time, but I was absolutely beat and all of us were ready for the at-sea day we would have on Friday.  Rest and relaxation were not on the agenda, but much less walking would be involved.  Exhaustion aside, cruising on the Mediterranean was turning out to be everything we’d hoped for and much, much more.

Links to all the other parts of the trip report:IMG_6349

 

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